There are some commercially available ones that can do thicker but they are usually installed by specialty contractors. They will both make the floor feel warmer and they provide a nice airspace under the flooring. Straight off the bat: It needs to be stated that not all roofs are made the same and not all roofers charge the same prices. my plan is to do the following: 1. install plywood on the walls (i may upgrade the R-11 to R-13 insulation). Will that be an issue? So concrete frankly likes water! I would keep the 5/4 12″ on center for added strength. Good luck…I hope you sign up for the FREE Newsletter so you can get more home improvement tips and advice. Would you use poly on top of the concrete or just foam ot DriCore etc. The second floor of the north wing had become a perfect fire trap. If you’re worried about height than removing the tile will help. I thought the Trex would be strong enough? Thanks for the nice compliment. For both levels, I’ll insulate the walls using 2″ XPS foam, glued/sealed with canned spray foam. If you have a wooden subfloor and your tile is directly installed to it – go pick out new tile. Also the floor has sunken in floor drains and the floor is not level in those areas(slopes about 3ft around the drains, drains are sunken in about 1″) do you have any recommendations for this. 5) Would 5/8 inch plywood or OSB be an acceptable substitute for 3/4 inch plywood for the flooring assuming I placed the strapping 16 inches on centre or less? I’d use a transition strip. I did my graduate research on advanced concrete material science and I’m convinced it will never dry out. In my basement, the concrete floor slopes towards the outer walls and then towards a drain. 1. I think it’s certainly a possible solution. I would try sealing a small area, then testing with a piece of plastic taped over it to see if there is any moisture build up. Adam – My pleasure….glad you like the site. Having said that, if you go to your local lumber yard (one that has an engineering department or specification group) they can generally design the header and tell you what size options are available. Space should be left at the walls for the finished flooring just as you would do on a normal flooring install. My question: should the sleepers around the perimeter of the floor also be 1/4 in from the concrete wall instead of right up against the wall in order to allow for expansion? I am using 1 inch foam with 23/32 T&G advantec board for my subfloor. I’m guessing I could lay down 3/4″ pressure treated sleepers (screwed down) with 3/4″ foam panels in between. For the floor in the finished half of the basement, I was considering using some form of dimpled membrane (like Delta-FL) to allow for future water mishaps. Lets say that I want dryness first and comfort next Does 6 mil poly, 3/4 foam, and plywood sound ok? If installing tile directly to concrete (and you should not) there needs to be a soft joint directly above, or two inches on either side, of the slabs expansion joints. Mortar, mastic or other adhesives are not recommended. The 1/4″ gap is for expansion, if the floor expands it will just push into the foam. I’d make a note for yourself with the location in case you need access to it in the future. I was then going to use 1 1/2″ foam board on the concrete walls and build my 2 x 4 walls with batt insulation inside the foam board on the walls and on top of the T & G OSB. Lots of jobs being completed correctly because of your help. However, in general here are the basics. Which approach would you go with? Great information. Complete one row at a time across the room allowing for a 1/4” gap around walls and room obstructions. If you’re insulating a basement walk-out wall then follow the article for those. That’s R4. Frank – Without a photo it’s hard to say exactly what I would do. I also did a detailed post with pictures when I took out my basement center lally column and installed some big MC-Channels. I just want to be thorough and do things right the first time. This prevents any moisture in the concrete from wicking up into the plywood. These materials can last much longer than asphalt, but take extra care to clean without damage. Hi, looking for some insight. install carpet on the Dri-core. It really comes down to R value. we are now on to the floor and have applied the one inch xps….but now from reading some of the above posts it seems we should have installed 6 mil poly before the foam. todd: seriously, you are impressive. Some options I thought of: 1. layer of mil plastic (sealed and taped), then some 1/2 foam(taped at the seams), a thin carpet pad, and then the carpet? Be sure to fix any problems in the concrete floor such as cracks, spalls and water problems. Can XPS be used in stead of Styrofoam? Should the 2″XPS be applied to the walls first all the way to the concrete floor? I agree, but I’m definitely not calling that guy back to fix it! There is a drain in the floor that I wanted to keep functional so I was thinking about leaving a 3/4″ space between the XPS sheets with the spaces pointing towards the drain. Below are some comments/responses to your questions. Do you mean how do you transition the floor? I’ve been reading some of the post about the Advantech and I like the idea mainly because its seems like this method would not cut down on my ceiling height. A concrete floor isn’t perfectly flat, the foam won’t sit perfect, so the 5/8″ to 3/4″ sheathing helps even it all out, and create a surface that’s stiff enough for the flooring. When you say you have such low ceiling heights I’d be tempted to just tile it over something like Schluter Mat http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/schluter-ditra-tile-underlayment/ This way you have a flooring that won’t be affected by water and the Schluter will likely insulate it a tad. I’d recommend a 6 mil poly vapor barrier, then the foam. Todd – Glad you found the site useful. oz. The trouble is getting an even floor when you’re done. If you have no use for the drain (dry basement) then I’d tape over it to seal it. Also, did you see the article in Fine Homebuilding September 2009 about subflooring — any comments? It’s a great DIY project, one you can complete in two to five days or … I was hoping that inslulating the floor and walls would stop the moiture problem. 2. 3. I am not worried about moisture coming up from the concrete through the XPS. At the very least it can help stop some moisture from leaving the concrete. High humidity in the summer-professionally installed HVAC-integrated high efficiency dehumidifier. Read this post about adding more grout to your grout lines. Yes 5. I think it does have some channels. If you go with a thin layer I’d probably recommend a vapor barrier first as the foam won’t act as one at that thickness. If you do that I’d recommend using an exterior grade plywood or OSB. however, in doing this, i will need to have the bottom plate of the wall directly on the concrete for installing anchor bolts. I have couple of questions that I needed help/clarification. Awesome. The problem with it is obviously improper installation, there is excess movement under your tile due to something. Tariq – The number of screws really depends on how flat the floor sits. Thanks. Thank you, I was worried I might be making the wrong choice. The Advantech is the sheathing I’d use for the floor vs regular plywood. I will definitely sign up for the newsletter though, and will tell every DIY’er I know about your site! It’s why I write the articles. It doesn’t really matter much which you frame first, if you do the wall first you might need blocking in the wall after the floor goes in to help with base trim. The insulation is in direct contact with the concrete. I’m not going to pass judgment on that product from CertainTeed. Ideally, if the top portion of the concrete is exposed on the outside, most of the “drying” of the foundation will happen at this location…the point of least resistance. 3) I really want to have a carpet free basement due to our cats. Is the bottom wall plate treated? What do you think of putting composite decking 5/4 directly on the floor with the Advantech on top? I wouldn’t put it on insulation. Mike – Thanks for the kind words. Hi Todd, Thank you for this great set of articles. Is this even possible without removing? On the other hand, carpet, flooring, etc don’t like water at all. I have some low spots I’m going to try and fill in, but since I’m not using 3/4″ xps, should I use a thicker osb? Good luck. Crafted from reclaimed wood, this design sports a planked top and an angular base, all gray-washed for that perfect distressed, antique-like look - *without* the years of wear and tear! Should I use a vapor barrier? i am using 3/4 tongue and groove plywood (not advantech). I commented on this site back in Oct and had to postpone operations in the basement. I guess I should be more specific. Insulating Concrete Floors. drop-ceiling type) or paneling. Should I be putting any plastic down? There is at least one other similar product on that market…think it’s a GP product. Would be happy to send pictures if you are interested. So I’ve devised the following plan, let me know what you think: Install a 6-mil poly vapour barrier directly against the slab, then rip pressure treated lumber (2×4 or 2×6) 16″ OC to level the entire room. Todd – thanks for the feedback. any details you can recommend for this? @ Jody – It really depends on how flat the floor sits. I did not read throughly. I want to use a hydronic system. I now need to insulate the exterior walls and the 2 walls that border the garage area. I’d just install the foam board and move on. Seal all the seams of the foam board insulation. Just to clarify I will not put insulation on floor, but Should I install the 2″ XPS on the wall first? Skip it just to demolish a 12 x 14-ft. patio could cost $... Probably 6 to 8 sheets per can if you live in a cold floor than considerations. And ceiling height: Roberts Harmony 3-in-1, http: //www.certainteed.com/resources/30211339.pdf tapcoms and just use glue our! 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It removed idea if this were your house, how much water you have any headroom to spare first. Built above the sub-floor to the floor I seem to be pressure treated sleeper level that part with sleepers top.
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